LISON ARRIVAL

 What the Tourist Should See

 

Over seven hills, which are as many points of observation whence the most magnificent panoramas may be enjoyed, the vast irregular and many-coloured mass of houses that constitute Lisbon is scattered.

 

For the traveller who comes in from the sea, Lisbon, even from afar, rises like a fair vision in a dream, clear-cut against a bright blue sky which the sun gladdens with its gold.

 

And the domes, the monuments, the old castles jut up above the mass of houses, like far-off heralds of this delightful seat, of this blessed region. 

The tourist's wonder begins when the ship approaches the bar, and, after passing the Bugio lighthouse - that little guardian-tower at the mouth of the river built three centuries ago on the plan of Friar João Turriano -, the castled Tower of Belém appears, a magnificent specimen of sixteenth century military architecture, in the romantic-gothic-moorish style (v. here).

 

As the ship moves forward, the river grows more narrow, soon to widen again, forming one of the largest natural harbours in the world with ample anchorage for the greatest of fleets.

Then, on the left, the masses of houses cluster brightly over the hills. That is Lisbon.

A carriage, a motor-car, or even a common electric trail, will carry the stranger in a few minutes right to the centre of the city.

On the wharf every facility awaits him for the officials he finds there are invariably polite and ready to give him every indication he may require, whether he address the customs officials or those of the port or immigration police.

Outside the Customs building there is a small police station which comes in very useful, as it controls the porterage of luggage, to avoid the abuses which, but for that, would be inevitable anywhere in such circumstances.

This station sends luggage to any part of the city and takes upon itself the responsibility for the delivery. The officials are fully competent and speak several languages.

We shall now ask the tourist to come with us. We will act as his cicerone and go over the capital with him, pointing out to him the monuments, the gardens, the more remarkable buildings, the museums - all that is in any way worth seeing in this marvellous Lisbon.

After his luggage has been handed to a trustworthy porter, who will deliver it at the hotel if the tourist is staying awhile, let him take his place with us in a motor-car and go on towards the centre of the city. On the way we will be showing him everything that is worth seeing.  

Right in front of the wharf he has just left is the Rocha do Conde de Óbidos, an eminence crowned with a well kept garden which is reached by two large stone stairways; from the garden itself, at the top, there is a fine view over the river. 

Going along the Rua 24 de Julho, we pass the Santos Gardens (or Vasco da Gama Gardens) and soon afterwards the Gardens of Praça de Dom Luiz, where there is the bronze statue of one of the heroic commanders of the liberal campaigns, the Marquis de Sá da Bandeira; the monument itself, sculptured by Giovanni Ciniselli, was cast in Rome, and the base made in Lisbon by Germano José de Salles and erected in 1881.